If you’re shooting with a DSLR using the ‘Mup’ (mirror up) setting is also recommended to avoid camera shake caused by mirror movement. Using the shutter delay setting on your camera or a shutter release is recommended. You will need a good, stable tripod and a solid ball head or pistol grip to try and ensure no movement of your camera between shots. There’s no magic to this…it’s more of a trial and error process, and after we’ve made enough mistakes at it…we eventually call it ‘experience’.
#PHOTOSTACK MACRO FULL#
On the other hand, if you’re putting together a macro image of a fairly wide/deep object and using a full frame camera, you may have to take 20 exposures or more to get everything in the scene captured in focus by at least one of your shots. If you’re using focus stacking to extend the apparent depth-of-field with a landscape scene you may only have to take three exposures, each focused on different parts of the scene….foreground, mid-ground, and background.
#PHOTOSTACK MACRO SOFTWARE#
It also takes considerable skill and experience, both behind the camera and in post processing.įor us mere mortals, having a good tripod and head, a decent camera and macro lens, and software like CS6 is enough to do some basic macro focus stacking and have a lot of fun.
When used for macro photography and done at a professional level, focus stacking is a precise and exacting process that can require very specialized equipment like an automated focus stacking macro rail and would need to be done in a highly controlled studio setting. Obviously for focus stacking to work your subject must be stationary. Focus stacking is most commonly used with macro and landscape photography where it may be critical that the image is pin-sharp from the top to the bottom of the frame. NIKON D800 + 105mm f/2.8 105mm, ISO 50, 1/25, f/8.0įocus stacking is a technique that can be beneficial when a photographer wants to extend the apparent depth-of-field of an image, and also wants to avoid the loss of image sharpness that can result from the effects of diffraction when using an increased f-stop. It’s far from perfect, but it does represent a typical result that most hobbyists can easily achieve. It was composed from 11 separate exposures. The following image is a quick focus stacking example I put together for this article. To put this article in proper context, I’ve never used focus stacking for any of my client work, and I don’t profess to be an expert at the technique…but I have experimented with it. For most people who just want to have some fun with their photography and have another ‘trick up their sleeve’ focus stacking can be an interesting technique to explore.
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